When you picture your perfect ring, chances are you imagine the shape first. A classic round, an elegant oval or something with a few more angles. But there's something that matters just as much, and it gets talked about far less: the cut. It's the reason two stones of the same size can look completely different on the hand ✨ From dazzling Brilliants to the softer charm of Old Cuts, we'll explore the main styles, what makes them unique and how to tell them apart - and by the end, you might find yourself drawn to a cut you hadn't considered before.
- Shape
- The outline you see from above
- Cut
- How the facets are arranged, and where the sparkle comes from
- Round Brilliant
- The most sparkle, with 57 or 58 facets
- Old Cuts
- A softer glow, shaped by hand for candlelight
- Emerald and Asscher Cuts
- A calm, mirror-like gleam that shows off colour
- Looks biggest
- Oval, Marquise and Pear
What's the difference between ‘shape’ and ‘cut’?
Shape and cut are easy to mix up, because the words are often used as if they mean the same thing. The shape is the outline you see when you look down at the stone: round, oval, cushion or pear. The cut is how the stone's small, flat, polished surfaces, called facets, are arranged. Those facets work like tiny mirrors: they catch the light, bounce it around inside the stone and send it back to your eye. A well-cut stone gives you three things: brightness, flashes of rainbow colour (known as fire) and the twinkle of light and dark you see as your hand moves (known as scintillation). That's why two stones of exactly the same weight can look so different. One has simply been cut better than the other.
How many facets does a Round Brilliant Diamond have?
When most people picture a Diamond, they picture a Round Brilliant, and it's by far the most popular choice: an estimated 75% of all Diamonds sold are round. A Round Brilliant has 57 or 58 facets, and the difference is the culet: a tiny flat facet at the very bottom of the stone, which some brilliants have and some don't. In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky refined the angles that give the modern brilliant its fire and brightness, designed to send as much light as possible back to your eye. The result is lots of small, bright flashes, which makes the Round Brilliant the natural choice if sparkle is what you love most.
“Two stones of exactly the same weight can sparkle quite differently, simply because one has been cut better than the other.”
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What's the difference between an Old Cut and a Brilliant Cut Diamond?
Before electric light, Diamonds were cut to glow by candlelight. The Old Mine Cut was the most common cut until the late 19th century, and the Old European Cut shares much of its character. Both were shaped by hand, following the natural shape of each rough Diamond, so no two are exactly alike. You can recognise an Old Cut by its taller top, its smaller flat face and, when you look straight down, a tiny window at the bottom of the stone. Different to the busy sparkle of a modern brilliant, its larger facets catch the light in broad, gentle flashes. The effect is softer and warmer, with a glow that feels more candlelit than glittering.
What is an Asscher Cut?
Think square, but with a twist. An Asscher's corners are cut away so deeply that the stone takes on an almost octagonal shape. First created by Joseph Asscher in 1902, it quickly became a favourite of the Art Deco era, which is known for its love of bold, geometric shapes. The Asscher belongs to a family of cuts called step cuts. Rather than lots of tiny facets, it has fewer, larger ones arranged in neat rows, like the steps of a staircase. As light moves through the stone, these facets create the Asscher's famous “hall of mirrors” effect, with alternating flashes of light and dark. It's less about sparkle and more about a calm, clean gleam.
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Ring collections at Philip Lloyd
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Why is it called an Emerald Cut?
The Emerald Cut is a long, elegant rectangle with clipped corners and broad, stepped facets. As the name suggests, it was first made for Emeralds, whose natural characteristics can make them susceptible to chipping. The cut helps reduce the risk of damage while creating the clean, elegant look it's known for. Its long, open facets give the same mirror-like gleam as the Asscher, with less sparkle than a brilliant, and that's exactly why it suits coloured gemstones so well. With less sparkle to compete with, the colour takes centre stage. One thing to know: those clear, open facets make any natural marks inside the stone easier to see, so an Emerald Cut looks its best on a clean, well-coloured stone.
Which shapes make a Diamond look bigger?
Carat measures a stone's weight, not its size, so two stones of the same carat weight won't always look the same on the hand. Much of the difference comes down to shape. Elongated shapes such as the Oval, the Marquise and the Pear typically have a larger visible surface area than a Round stone of the same carat weight, so they can appear bigger when viewed from above. They also combine the sparkle of a brilliant cut with a longer, more elegant outline, and that extra length can make fingers appear longer and more slender, for a flattering look.
What is a Cushion Cut?
With its rounded corners and square or rectangular shape, the Cushion Cut softens the lines of a more angular stone. The result is a lovely balance of structure and softness, giving it plenty of character without feeling too sharp or geometric. Its sparkle falls in a different pattern from a Round Brilliant's, and the shape is a lovely way to show off a stone with rich colour.
How do you choose the right cut?
There's no wrong answer, and the best way to decide is to see a few cuts side by side. If you love sparkle above all, a Round Brilliant Cut Diamond is the one for you. If you'd prefer a softer, more romantic glow, take a look at Old Cuts. If you're drawn to clean lines and rich colour, a step cut such as an Emerald Cut or an Asscher will give you that calm, mirror-like gleam. And if you'd like your stone to look as large as possible for its weight, an elongated shape such as an Oval, a Marquise or a Pear will help. You may already have a favourite in mind, but seeing the cuts side by side might just change it - and that's all part of finding the right stone. Each cut has its own character, and the right one is simply the one that feels most you.
Where to see them
We have a wide selection of rings showing off all of these cuts, from Round Brilliant Diamond solitaires and three stone rings to Emerald Cut Aquamarines, Oval Sapphires and a handful of Old Cut Diamond rings, in Art Deco style, Victorian style and contemporary designs. You can browse our current Ring Collections online, or visit us in person at our Reigate store at 61A High Street to see how each cut catches the light. We're always happy to talk you through the stones, settings and sizing, and sizing is completely free of charge!
Questions we are asked
- Is an Old Cut Diamond less sparkly than a modern brilliant?
- Not less, just different. The modern brilliant is designed to maximise light return, producing the bright, lively sparkle we recognise today. Old Cuts were shaped by hand for a world lit by candlelight, and their larger facets create broader, softer flashes. Each has its own character, so the choice comes down to personal preference.
- Which Diamond shapes look biggest for their carat weight?
- The shape can make a real difference. An Oval typically has a larger visible surface area than a Round stone of the same carat weight, so it can appear bigger when viewed from above. Marquise and Pear shapes can also offer plenty of visual coverage for their weight.
- Is the Emerald Cut only used for Emeralds?
- No, despite its name, the Emerald Cut is used for many different gemstones. It was originally developed with Emeralds in mind, as its design helps reduce the risk of chipping during cutting.
